
Wind wave - Wikipedia
In fluid dynamics, a wind wave, or wind-generated water wave, is a surface wave that occurs on the free surface of bodies of water as a result of the wind blowing over the water's surface. The contact distance in the direction of the wind is known as the fetch. Waves in the oceans can travel thousands of kilometers before reaching land.
Waves - National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
2023年9月20日 · The waves in a fully developed sea outrun the storm that creates them, traveling great distances from the wind source and lengthening and reducing in height in the process. These lower frequency waves are called swell waves. Swells organize into groups smooth and regular in appearance.
Why does the ocean have waves? - NOAA's National Ocean Service
2024年6月16日 · Waves transmit energy, not water, across the ocean and if not obstructed by anything, they have the potential to travel across an entire ocean basin. Waves are most commonly caused by wind. Wind-driven waves, or surface waves, are created by the friction between wind and surface water.
What causes ocean waves? - NOAA Ocean Exploration
There are a few types of ocean waves and they are generally classified by the energy source that creates them. Most common are surface waves, caused by wind blowing along the air-water interface, creating a disturbance that steadily builds as wind continues to …
10.1 Wave Basics – Introduction to Oceanography
We are most familiar with the kind of waves that break on shore, or rock a boat at sea, but there are many other types of waves that are important to oceanography: Internal waves form at the boundaries of water masses of different densities (i.e. at a pycnocline), and propagate at depth.
Currents, Waves, and Tides - Smithsonian Ocean
Water is propelled around the globe in sweeping currents, waves transfer energy across entire ocean basins, and tides reliably flood and ebb every single day. But why does this occur? Ocean movement is created by the governing principles of physics and chemistry.
16.4: Ocean-Wave Spectra - Geosciences LibreTexts
2024年11月11日 · Ocean waves are produced by the wind. The faster the wind, the longer the wind blows, and the bigger the area over which the wind blows, the bigger the waves. In designing ships or offshore structures we wish to know the biggest waves produced by a given wind speed.
Ocean Waves - NASA Earthdata
2022年10月26日 · NASA's ocean waves data provides details for learning how the peaks of moving water contribute to tsunamis and important ocean and climate processes. Ocean waves can vary enormously in size and character.
Ocean Waves | CMEMS - Copernicus
Ocean waves exist at the sea surface and act as a buffer for exchanges between the ocean and the atmosphere. The energy of a wave is driven by the wind and propagated from one region to another, until waves break and their energy is released. By doing so, ocean waves participate in climate regulation.
Why Does the Ocean Have Waves? - National Oceanic and …
Learn why the ocean has waves. Waves transmit energy, not water, and are commonly caused by the wind as it blows across the ocean, lakes, and rivers. Waves caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun are called tides. The ebb and flow of waves and tides are the life force of our world ocean. Why Does the Ocean Have Waves?